Keeping the monsters in ...
I need a fence system for my graveyard haunt. I need a fence than can be assembled and broken down easily.
I need a system of modular pieces that can be positioned as needed and adjustments made to taste.
This fence has to provide a sturdy barrier between the contents of the haunt display and anyone itching to get a closer look.
This fence has to look right.
The modular requirement will be satisfied by building individual fence panel sections with *identical* mounting
points on each end. Individual panels will fit onto intermediate fence posts, also having *identical* mounting
points on opposing faces.
To make this fence strong, I'll start with a wood core. A 15-inch square plywood base will hold a
41" tall by 7 1/4" square (hollow) plywood column. This decent footprint, plus a plan to assemble the fence pieces at
different angles will provide a sound combination of vertical support, minimized component weight, and better
stability along the fence "line."
Each post will have upper and lower sockets that will receive pins from each fence panel section.
Pins and sockets will allow for a degree of motion away from a straight line. The pins will be located in an identical
plumb position on each panel section, making all panel sections interchangable. Sockets will be
positioned on uniform vertical points per post, and lateral adjustments can be made to compensate for
uneven ground, intentionally skewed posts, or otherwise aesthetic reasons.
The wooden post cores will be skinned with extruded sheet foam. This material lends itself quite well to
any builder's imagination. This malleable material can be distressed, textured, painted, etc. to achieve the
"right" look for the haunt.
Building the Fence Posts
Four identical pieces of 1/4" luan recieve nailer blocks. These are glued and nailed in place along one
side of each plywood wall. Whether you start with the left or right side doesn't matter as
long as all pieces are the same for each column.
This photo shows the reasoning behind the first step. Since all pieces are the same, some of the layout work is eliminated.
The second piece laps over the edge of the first and is glued and nailed in place.
... You guessed it ... the third piece laps over the second ...
My recommendations for this part of the build are weather proof wood glue
and a pneumatic brad nailer or stapler. If you plan to make more than a couple of these, or plan to finish the structural build
in a day or two, the air nailer is a must-have tool. It is fast, precise, and eliminates the need for clamps
during glue cure times.
3/4" plywood backing boards are added to the inside faces of opposing walls.
Adding these before completing the main structure is easier than adding them after the glue is set.
These backer boards will aid in supporting the fence panels ... more on that later.
After adding the final side, check the assembly for square. Scrap wood can be nailed across corners to
maintain square while the glue cures.
The base of each post will appear larger than the center column segment.
In keeping with the overlapping square method, spacer blocks are nailed at each corner of the
center column. Bulking this section out in wood serves two purposes for me. It's slightly faster than adding
third or forth layers of sheet foam (3/4" styrofoam is our maximum available thickness around here.)
This will also create a slightly bigger footprint at the base, which will be altered in the next step.
Here's the start of a handsome dozen graveyard fence posts.
So far with this build, everything has been built square. Building square simplifies most of the process,
as most machines are designed to cut straight lines, square, or parallel lines. Square assemblies require less intricate
layout work, less time orienting components, and less opportunity for error when assembling multiple pieces at once.
While "square" saves the builder some aggrivation, it can take away from the appearance from a haunter's design standpoint.
The goal is to build something new and sturdy that looks old and rickety.
The first photo above shows a cut line drawn around the bottom of one post. One face will be 3/8" shorter than the opposing face.
The sides will be cut diagonally between these lines. If 3/8" doesn't sound like much, take a look at the second photo above.
The post on the left is cut with one side 3/8" short of square, while the post on the right is left square.
Some posts were altered to tilt to the side, some tilt to the front/back, a couple are out of plumb in two directions.
Just for fun, three posts are left square. The difference may be subtle, but there IS a difference, and
it will pay off in the end.
A 1X4 support block is added to the bottom of each post, inside the center column.
Wood glue and finish nails hold the block in place while the glue sets. This joint will
be part of the fence post's structural integrity, so a good fit here is important.
A square plywood base is attached to this support block from the bottom.
1 1/2" coarse thread screws will pull everything tight and wood glue will make it stay.
Adding sheet foam to the plywood carcass isn't necessarily a fast process.
I choose to add foam to opposing sides. Polyurethane glue is applied and spread with
scrap material. A thin, even coat is sufficient. 100 percent coverage isn't necessary, but is recommended.
Mist lightly with water from a spray bottle, position the foam, and tape it
to the sides of the box. Misting with water supplies the moisture needed for the polyurethane glue
to begin its expansion process. A light misting of water and a thin layer of glue will guarantee a solid bond without
over expanding the joint.
After the polyurethane glue is fully cured, excess sheet foam is easily trimmed with a handsaw. Keeping the saw blade tight to the
wood box will produce a tight fitting joint when the remaining sides of the box are covered with sheet foam.
Any imperfections in your cut can be sanded, filed, etc. Also remember that the polyurethane glue used to adhere
the next layer of sheet foam will expand slightly to fill minor voids in the joint.
Four sides are skinned with foam, and I'll repeat the process. I want a thicker carving base here for the detailing process.
After the second layer of sheet foam is applied and the glue cured, all excess foam is trimmed. The sides are
trimmed "square," and the tops are trimmed to the 1/4" luan substrate. Pieces of sheet foam are added to
finish the top of the box shape of each fence post's lower segment.
One more rough trimming for the bottom segments after the glue sets.
At this stage , the 3/8" alterations are more prominent from column to column . We still have a square column
to work with, but many of the posts will sit out of plumb - intentional artificial neglect (?)
To skin the center columns, the process is the same as for the base sections.
Sheet foam is cut roughly 1/4" larger than needed, glued, and taped in place.
Once the glue is fully cured, the excess foam is trimmed flush with the plywood faces.
The second stage (shown above) completes the skinning process for the center columns.
As with other foam applications, the excess will be trimmed after the glue cures.
These curing assemblies will become cap pieces for the graveyard fence posts.
The stacks to the right are laminations that will be shaped into tapered, pyramid-type tops.
The stacks to the left will be glued as bands to the underside of the
top, creating the look of a thicker slab of material.
This photo shows a rough shaped post cap (left) and a post cap assembly prior to rough shaping.
Here we are, structurally complete and rough sanded ... ready for mounting hardware
and the detailing process.